view from the top of Savoca
September 2008
Our invitation had been received months before and the hunt was on for a good place to stay. The wedding in Sicily made sense, our friends future husband’s family came from Messina and it mean’t they could all come. We were delighted to be invited and couldn’t wait. Sicily had been on my radar for awhile but I’d never made it.
So on a chilly, clear moonlit drive down the M6 to Manchester, we made the early flight to Catania on the East coast of Sicily. Flying over the mountainous interior made me realise how big the island is, the largest in the Mediterranean. I had previously worked with people from Catania at home but never been, so it was we touched down on the sunny outskirts of the city. The holiday being a package made it unusually simple for our airport transfer. However arriving at rush hour mean’t a delayed view of the suburbs from the highway. By the time we arrived in Taormina, our destination, it was late afternoon and shade covered the large coach park where our bus terminated. Because Taormina is an old cliff edge town, access to central parts are by small vehicles or by foot. Anticipation was high before arriving at our hotel. I had spent some time and effort selecting a hotel near the centre that wasn’t too expensive. This beauty spot attracted Victorian travellers and has been popular ever since. A drive along the side of the steep hillside on Via Roma had stunning sea views with our hotel perched on the horizon. A short steep walk down with our bags in the humid air, led us to the Monte Tauro Hotel. Cool air conditioned reception and wonderful vistas greeted us. We had arrived at last.
Monte Tauro Hotel photo courtesy of TripAdvisor
Unusually, the Hotel reception was at the top, with rooms below but was obvious when you saw the mountain slope. Keen to explore, we went out after a quick change. Steep incline led to a restaurant on Via Roma, with arguably the best views in the village. Then the street narrowed and twisted, clinging with shops before reaching the plateaued main pedestrian shopping street of Corso Umberto. This street is framed by two stone gates, Porta Catania to the south and Porta Messina to the north. We couldn’t believe our luck at how close our hotel was to the village centre. After a wander round the now closing shops, we headed for dinner in a local restaurant La Grotta Azzurra on Via Giovanni. Freshly grilled fish and Sicilian wine was the order and we found ourselves quickly at home. A nightcap at the wine cave Il Gattopardo (the leopard) finished a lovely start to a week trip. Morning brought a breakfast with vistas to die for and chilled prosecco, how decadent. Our friends met us to see our hotel and we met with rest of the wedding party. The heat was noticeable strong, we had arrived during heatwave. That didn’t stop shopping strolls, checking out the Greek theatre and location seeking for the wedding venues. Lunch at Angelo’s inspired my Sicilian Lasagne recipe. A basic service surrounded by pictures of The Godfather film actors visits in 1972, the food was simple. Afterwards I went to a nearby pharmacy to pick up some Acqua di Parma and was strongly advised to buy the local Antonio Fusco, how could I refuse! Later, the best gnocchi in town for dinner as recommended by our Sicilian friends, followed by late drinks at Q Lounge with the wedding couple. The following day was the hen/stag parties, so we took it easy by the pool freshened a fuzzy head with a swim in the pool. An aperitivo at the leopard now became an early evening and nightcap ritual. Ready for the stag we met for a beer at the Irish bar before dinner and drinks in a Mexican restaurant. A civilised affair for the Sicilian. The girls, well they behaved rather well for Scottish hen’s and we met later in a square for drinks. Thankfully didn’t become a big night, I think in part to the previous nights escapades.
Taormina views
The wedding was why we were here in the first place and the highlight of the trip. Seeing good friends getting hitched with family and friends was fantastic. I wore the kilt and delayed putting it on until as late as possible in our air-conditioned room. The heat was unbearable and by the time we got to the leopard, I was a ball of sweat. A cool beer in the shade helped as we attracted attention from tourists and locals alike with my Scottish attire. We gathered on Corso Umberto, the kilts came from all angles and tourists neck-strained this unusual sight. I had acquired a distinctly un-Scottish hipflask but entirely appropriate to our location – Grappa from Etna. We met again our new and old friends of the wedding party, a mix of Scottish/Italian.
Wedding in Taormina
The wedding was 4pm at the Church San Giuseppe at the Piazza Duomo (main square) Porta Catania end of Corso Umberto. The heat kept building and even the normally cool air of the church was very humid. Ladies fanned their order of service, waiting patiently for the bride, while sharp suited Sicilians paced up and down the stunning chapel interior. Then the music played and it began. After a lovely Sicilian wedding we went on to the Piazza where a crowd had gathered and photos followed. The piper was Scottish and flew in from Rome to pipe the wedding party.
wedding celebrations begin
Well, this party had just started. After the pipes and photos we strolled behind the piper walking the length of the Corso Umberto stopping off at different bars for drinks. The atmosphere was terrific, locals and tourists loved the kilts, we were centre of attention but felt very relaxed. By the time we reached the reception, The Ashbee Hotel, we were a gang of merry people. The evening reception here was in stunning elevated surroundings with the flickering lights around the lido bay below in the dark sky. The dinner was an Italian affair which lasted many courses but by the time cake and desserts came, we were finished, a wonderful day for all the guests.
Isola Bella
The following day was spent resting with friends at Isola Bella just below Taormina. This stunning little stony beach gets popular with locals and tourists alike. It was apparently where Jackie Kennedy used holiday. We had a lovely lunch of salad & cassata at the beach restaurant and a lazy afternoon in the calm aqua waters of the Mediterranean sea. Some light snorkelling chilled us in the searing heat. However, as we headed back, clouds formed quickly and for the first time on our trip a sudden storm hit us. The dark skies poured with monsoon-style rain and we ran towards the cable car. I was a little stunned but not too happy going up in a crowded cable car with lightening strikes in the heavy rain. But it was too late to go back now! At the top was the Porta Messina and we popped into a cafe for an espresso and to dry off. The locals would have been glad of the heatwave break. Later, dinner was at the best pizza in town at Pizzeria Vecchia with Messina beer and Averna Amaro digestivo had become a nightly ritual. Late evening Window-shopping we passed cakes labelled ‘Mafioso’ cake (named for its part in the Godfather III film) displayed in local shop windows, Cannoli filled with ricotta. The Godfather tune played in tourist shops makes it hard not to notice the film’s influence here. The trip was turning into a real gourmet break, a foodie’s heaven and fantastic though it was, I was keen to see more of Sicily. So we decided the next day to drive up to nearby ‘Godfather’ country.
Savoca – village where The Godfather was filmed in 1972
A hired car arrived at the hotel and we had the indignity of an awkward steep hill start in front of hotel staff and guests. Negotiating Taormina road system was harder than getting to the mountain village itself. The drive is along the east coast north towards Messina is about 20 miles up the road. The village looks well in land but is actually only a mile or so inland and seen from top of the village (top picture). Its also on the opposite side of the island to Corleone as mentioned in the film. After a steep few bends on the road, you arrive in the sleepy village of Savoca, its best to park up behind the bar square (picture below) because the short walk up to the village is a heritage site and only allows local access. Over-grown greenery and trees in the little square make this part look lush, but its dry scrub land that surrounds.
Bar in The Godfather film
The slow meander cobbled street heads behind and uphill. A small group of buildings hug a hilltop and all is quiet. It was siesta time when we arrived. The sun beat down bouncing on the shiny, smooth road surface. Walking through the small village at the top was like a ghost town, just the noise of crickets in the scrub. It was difficult to work out which church was in the film wedding scene because there are more churches than houses here. We took the broken cobbled steep stairs to the hill top and monastery building and sat looking back over the barren land towards the sea.
wedding scene church in the Godfather film – Savoca
After awhile, we wandered back to the Bar Vitelli square where the Godfather theme tune could be heard creaking out of speakers. The little tourist shop door was closed, so I banged it open to find a sleeping woman. As she awoke, I apologised and made a purchase to justify the disturbance. I had read there is a museum here of mummified local noble people all dressed up and hanging on a wall. But unfortunately it was closed for refurbishment on our visit. This gory spectacle gives an insight to the Sicilian culture of life and death.
Godfather souvenir
On our last day we visited Castelmola, an ancient village above Taormina, picturesque and a favourite with tourists from Italy and abroad. We didn’t walk up from Taormina as some do but took a taxi up during the midday heat. A snack lunch and gelato while reflecting the wedding and a magical trip to Sicily. The views of Mount Etna are stunning and as I looked to its sky-filling plume-come cloud, I knew by not going this time, I would need a return trip here. In the afternoon we headed to the beach at Giardini-Naxos. Filled with families, the warm breeze blowing beautiful waves across the straits of Messina, this is also a popular stop for the large cruise ships. Last day of the holiday, yearning to stay longer feelings before a last night in Sicily. So glad we went B&B at the hotel, too many good places to eat here. Drinks at the leopard and simple dinner at the Mirage with a now favourite local wine Nero D’Avola, overlooked the twinkling lights of the Giardini-Naxos bay we had spent the afternoon, truly a million-dollar view. A last passeggiata stroll people-watching on the Corso Umberto before a nightcap at the hotel piano bar and bed. The next morning was a last prosecco breakfast before the inevitable return trip back to Catania airport and stocking up of Averna products: Amaro, Limoncello and their delicious Mandarinetto. I left feeling I had only just begun my Sicily adventures and would need return visits.
Savoca – The Godfather film
To Laura & Paolo, Saluti!
For the food, wine, culture, people…
um potzo aspettare vedir ra ti!
Bumps On The Road 